The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food Read online

  fed to fish, 156, 157

  gizzards, 155, 219

  overproduction of, 155–57

  portioning and processing of, 150, 152, 154, 155

  yellow, 149

  Chicken: The Dangerous Transformation of America’s Favorite Food (Striffler), 148

  chickpeas, 369

  China, 156, 235

  cholesterol, 169n

  Christiansen, Guy, 324

  chromosomes, 360, 408

  Civil War, 348

  clams, 224–25

  Clause, Jean-Joseph, 109, 180

  Clemson University Coastal Research and Education Center, 356–58, 377, 403

  climate change, 196, 217, 218, 249, 313

  clover, 63–64, 71, 358

  Clover, Charles, 214–15, 219

  cod, 218, 219, 234

  coffee, 87, 183, 342

  Coleman, Eliot, 30, 53–54, 58, 60, 65, 78–80, 90–93, 99, 384, 437, 445

  combines, 51, 350

  compost, 85, 88, 89

  corals, 218n

  cork, 174, 177n

  corn, 2–3, 27, 34, 35, 38, 62–66, 74, 103, 245, 324, 344, 348, 350, 351, 358, 359, 360, 367, 395

  at Blue Hill Farm, 3, 5, 20

  Eight Row Flint, 1–2, 5–8, 18, 68, 136, 335, 343, 361, 377–79

  grits, 348, 349, 350–51, 354, 373, 375, 380

  Hopi Blue, 371, 378

  liver and, 127–28, 162

  polenta, 2, 6, 7–8, 16, 18, 68, 136, 335, 351, 375–76

  Three Sisters planting strategy, 6, 378, 446

  Wapsie Valley, 380

  yields for conventional vs. organic, 366–67

  Corn Belt, 35

  Cornell University, 33, 384, 386

  plant breeders at, 328, 387–89

  corn sweeteners, 35

  Corson, Juliet, 16

  cotton, 348, 369n, 395

  countercuisine movement, 340–41

  Cowan, Thomas, 267

  cowpeas, 358, 367, 372

  cows, see cattle

  crabs, 216

  Crespo Sevilla, Diego, 294–300

  crustaceans, 218n

  cuisines, 15–16, 18, 21–22, 367–69, 378, 379–80, 431

  countercuisine movement, 340–41

  grande, 139

  landrace, 377–78

  nose-to-tail, see nose-to-tail cooking

  nouvelle, 137–41, 149, 254, 259, 306

  southern, 344–48, 373, 375

  Daguin, Ariane, 127

  D’Artagnan, 127

  Darwin, Charles, 213

  Davidson, Alan, 306–7

  Davis, Donald, 95n

  DDT, 239, 248n

  dead zones, 216, 245–46

  Deere, John, 44

  degustation menus, 140

  dehesa, 104–5, 124, 125–26, 128, 163–68, 170, 172–77, 180–82, 193, 196, 211, 233, 262, 269, 284, 330, 332, 423, 428, 430, 440, 441

  De Jong, Walter, 388

  Delmonico’s, 357

  Dennett, Daniel, 339

  Descartes, René, 268

  diabetes, 9

  Dirt: The Erosion of Civilizations (Montgomery), 72

  diseases, 9, 95, 269, 364

  degenerative, 97

  heart, 169n, 269

  diversity, 19–20, 43, 74, 103, 360, 360, 367, 368, 401, 422

  dolphins, 215

  Doñana National Park, 237, 238–39, 260–61, 263

  Down and Out in Paris and London (Orwell), 138

  Ducasse, Alain, 221

  ducks, 110, 118

  foie gras from, 110–11, 187–88, 192–93, 360

  Dulany, Peggy, 13

  Dust Bowl, 46–48, 50, 363

  Dworkin, Susan, 365–66

  Ecological Farming Conference, 31

  ecosystems, 202, 247, 262

  fragile, 201

  ecotones, 202

  edge effect, 201, 235

  Edge of the Sea, The (Carson), 240

  Egan, Timothy, 47

  eggs, 147, 149

  Egler, Frank, 88

  Egypt, 146

  Eight Row Flint corn, 1–2, 5–8, 18, 68, 136, 335, 343, 361, 377–79

  Eisenhower, Dwight D., 145

  El Campero, 283–94, 302

  Ellis, Jon, 246

  El Niño, 217

  El Puerto de Santa María, 221–23, 228

  emmer, 66–67, 333, 334, 335, 338, 343, 344, 358, 425

  Empires of Food: Feast, Famine, and the Rise and Fall of Civilizations (Fraser and Rimas), 71

  End of Food, The (Roberts), 153

  End of the Line, The (Clover), 214–15, 219

  Erie Canal, 39

  Esca, 277, 315

  Escoffier, Auguste, 137, 352

  esters, 87

  estuaries, 264, 266

  Extremadura, 104–5, 120–21, 142, 165–66, 179, 194, 195, 431, 440

  farmers’ markets, 10, 11, 103, 107, 329, 330, 406

  farms:

  midsize, 330, 332

  self-sustaining, 427, 428

  small, 103, 107, 329, 330, 410

  farm-to-table, 9, 10, 12, 15, 17, 182, 284, 430, 431

  Blue Hill and, 8, 9

  chefs and, 11, 15, 139–40

  Farm Winery Act, 326

  feed conversion ratio (FCR), 235

  Ferrer, Miguel, 148–49

  Fertile Dozen, 30–31, 79, 89, 96, 427

  fertilizers, 27, 41, 58, 63, 73, 74, 89, 93, 152, 265, 348, 364, 365

  dwarf seeds and, 365

  oceans and, 216

  overfertilization, 58

  wheat and, 45, 363, 366, 367, 399, 416–17

  Field Guide to the Birds, A (Peterson), 248n

  field peas, 348, 349, 352

  fish, seafood, 11, 14, 113, 114, 209, 213, 217, 234–35, 251–59, 442

  algae blooms and, 216, 287

  anchovies, 292

  awareness of new species, 272

  bass, 236–37, 241, 242–43, 255, 256, 276–77, 285–86, 306, 307, 313, 314, 315, 318

  Bouley and, 251–52, 256–59, 290

  bruised, 226

  buying in bulk, 253

  chefs and, 218–20, 233, 236, 252, 260, 272, 279–81, 399–400, 442

  chicken fed to, 156, 157

  consumption of, 218–20, 253

  cost of, 156, 280

  eyes of, 222, 227, 230

  fresh, 252–53

  heads of, 234

  Le Coze and, 254–56, 276, 279–80, 400

  León and, 222–33

  monkfish, 255, 256, 280

  mullet, 286–87, 298, 306–8, 310–11, 313–14, 315, 316, 318–19

  Palladin and, 277–80, 400

  salmon, see salmon

  sausages, 305–6, 307, 311, 315, 316

  scallops, 278–79

  sea bream, 231–32

  shellfish, 229, 230, 315

  shrimp, 216, 229–30, 241, 242, 245, 297n, 308

  skate, 219, 254–55, 280

  specialty market in, 279–80

  squid, 257, 317

  sushi, 204, 209–10, 211, 255–56

  sustainability and, 210–11, 282

  swordfish, 219, 280–81

  tonaso, 226–27

  trophic levels of, 218–19, 220, 442

  trout, 442

  tuna, see tuna

  fish farming, see aquaculture

  fishing industry, 213–16, 220, 253–54, 279

  algae blooms and, 216

  almadraba, 273–75, 282–83, 287–90, 293–302, 303, 304, 313, 316

  bycatch and, 215, 229, 230,
305, 333

  León and, 227–28

  sonar in, 214, 274

  specialty market and, 279–80

  trawling in, 214–15

  flamingos, 244–45, 249–50, 312

  flavonoids, 87

  flavor, 22, 98, 99, 374, 375, 384

  blandness, 155n

  breeding for, 389, 403

  genes and, 403

  phytonutrients and, 87

  soil and, 85–90

  sub-taste threshold and, 373

  water content and, 403

  yields and, 6, 402–3

  Flavr Savr tomatoes, 385

  flea beetles, 54

  flounder, 219

  flour, 36, 37, 38–41, 47, 51, 342, 395, 413–14, 417

  consistency of, 410–11, 413, 415, 419–20

  graham, 343–44, 354–55, 373

  high-gluten, 416

  shelf life of, 38, 374

  white, 36, 39, 40, 43, 339, 354, 355

  whole wheat, 29, 342

  flour mills, 38, 419

  foie gras, 111–12, 118–19, 123, 127, 133, 136, 141, 148, 162, 180, 181, 187, 188, 310

  color of, 127–28, 149, 189

  from ducks, 110–11, 187–88, 192–93, 360

  from geese, 105–11, 119, 122, 132–34, 141, 145–46, 158–60, 162, 163, 169, 174, 180–87, 189–91, 193, 196, 221

  Stone Barns experiment with, 183–91, 194–98

  food as fuel, 380

  food chain, 21

  food preparation, time spent in, 153–54

  food processing, 74–75

  Ford, James, 85

  fossil fuels, 365

  Fourfold Path to Healing, The (Cowan), 267

  Fowler, Cary, 365, 396n

  fragile ecosystems, 201

  Fraser, Evan, 71

  Freedman, Paul, 141

  French Laundry, 351

  fruits, 35–36, 37, 94–96, 103, 149n

  Fuente de Piedra, 249

  Fulton Fish Market, 254

  fungi, 91

  anthracnose, 67

  late blight, 382–85, 386–87

  mycorrhizal, 91, 92–93

  fungicides, 82–83, 87

  Fussell, Betty, 155n

  galinsoga, 58

  García, Dani, 236

  Gault, Henri, 139

  geese, 105–6, 110, 118, 194

  foie gras from, 105–11, 119, 122, 132–34, 141, 145–46, 158–60, 162, 163, 169, 174, 180–87, 189–91, 193, 196, 221

  hawks and, 130, 245

  Sousa and, 105, 111, 119, 121, 122–23, 126–34, 158–64, 168, 180, 183–84, 189, 193, 195–96, 198, 243–45, 249, 251, 310, 433

  at Stone Barns, 183–91, 194–98

  Toulouse, 196

  wild, 131, 146

  genes, 269, 360, 361, 401–2, 422

  flavor and, 403

  genetically modified foods, 385, 398

  tomatoes, 385–86

  wheat, 395–98

  geraniums, 82–83

  Gérard, Charles, 110

  Ginor, Michael, 187

  giraffes, 243–44

  gizzards, 155, 219

  Glass Onion, The, 372–76

  global warming, 196, 217, 218, 249, 313

  gluten, 340, 416

  Gold, Jonathan, 8, 9

  “golden” food, 149n

  golf courses, 216

  Gourmet, 8, 202–3, 205–12, 222

  Gouze, Philippe, 203, 206

  Graham, Sylvester, 343–44, 355

  graham flour, 343–44, 354–55, 373

  Grahm, Randall, 91

  Grain Belt, 216

  grains, 16, 33–37, 46, 74, 103, 156–57, 235, 236, 327, 332–33, 377, 378, 423, 443

  barley, 327, 352, 367, 418, 437, 445

  feeding to livestock, 27, 28, 66, 97, 114, 115, 117–19, 298, 327, 332, 333, 440

  less desired, 327

  organic, 29

  rice, see rice

  rye, 349–50, 352, 358, 437, 438

  whole, 40, 339, 341

  see also corn; oats; wheat

  grande cuisine, 139

  grasses, 44, 52, 53, 59, 173, 423

  see also grains; weeds

  Great Plains, 43, 49

  greenhouse effect, 218

  greenhouses, 82, 83

  at Stone Barns, 13, 81, 84, 85, 88, 263, 317, 337, 445

  Green Revolution, 362, 364, 367, 368, 369, 412

  grits, 348, 349, 350–51, 354, 373, 375, 380

  grouper, 219, 223

  growing nature, 19, 180–81

  growth hormones, 324–25, 326

  Grunert, Alex, 334–36, 338, 340, 341, 343

  Guachie, Marcel, 188

  Guadalquivir River, 241, 242, 245–46, 264, 265, 267

  Guérard, Michel, 138

  Guide Michelin, 137

  Gulf of Mexico, 216, 245, 264–65

  Gussow, Joan Dye, 31, 96–97, 98

  Haber, Fritz, 73, 75, 152

  Haber-Bosch process, 73, 75

  halibut, 218, 219

  ham, 198

  see also jamón

  Haney, Craig, 13, 14, 113, 115, 116, 142–45, 148, 150, 160, 168–69, 183–85, 190, 191, 194–96, 198, 204, 207, 327, 438, 440–41, 443

  Harder, Jules, 357

  Harttung, Thomas, 31, 89

  Hatch Act, 386

  hawks, 130, 245

  heart, as pump, 266–67

  heart disease, 169n, 269

  Henley, Marcus, 192, 193

  herbicides, 53, 84–85, 248n

  genetically modified foods and, 395–98

  Roundup, 395–98

  2,4-D, 26

  weed resistance to, 27

  Hess, Karen, 38, 345

  Hi-Bred Corn Company, 362

  homeostasis, 267

  Homestead Acts, 44, 45, 386

  Hoover, Floyd, 324

  Hopi Blue corn, 371, 378

  Hopi nation, 371

  Hoppin’ John, 352, 431–32

  hormones, 324–25, 326

  Horst, Eddie, 324

  Howard, Albert, 70, 75–77, 83–84, 88

  Hubbell, Sue, 240

  Hudson Valley Foie Gras, 111–12, 187–88, 190, 192–94

  humus, 70, 76

  hunger, 365–66, 367, 369n

  Huxley, Thomas Henry, 213, 214

  hybrid vigor, 110, 360

  Ibérico, 176

  jamón ibérico, 104, 124, 125, 128, 162–65, 169–73, 176n, 177, 179, 182, 183, 198, 283, 291, 306, 332, 423, 441

  Ikerd, John, 97–98

  India, 363, 365

  Industrial Revolution, 110

  Ingham, Elaine, 87

  ingredient sourcing on menus, 276, 281, 411

  insecticides, 87

  DDT, 239, 248n

  insects, 54–55, 58, 99n

  International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas (ICCAT), 295–96

  International Culinary Center, 252

  International Maize and Wheat Improvement Center (CIMMYT), 363

  Iroquois, 6

  irrigation, 365

  Isenbarger, Jill, 440

  Isla Mayor, 237

  Jackson, Wes, 41–43, 45, 49–50, 92, 175–76, 331–33, 364, 366, 429–30

  Land Institute, 41

  Jalisco, 156

  Jamison, John, 116–18, 162, 278

  Jamison, Sukey, 116–17, 278

  jamón, 164, 284, 304

  ibérico, 104, 124, 125, 128, 162–65, 169–73, 176n, 177, 179, 182, 183, 198, 283, 291, 306, 332, 423, 441

  Jaradat, Abdu
llah, 359

  Jean-Louis at the Watergate, 107, 115, 117

  jellyfish, 272

  Johnson, Peter, 369n

  Jones, Hannelore, 399

  Jones, Steve, 390–409, 410, 412–23, 430, 434–35, 439–41, 444

  Bread Lab of, 414–23, 430, 434

  Jones Fife wheat, 391, 392, 406–7

  Kansas, 49, 400, 423

  Kaye, Adam, 441

  Keillor, Garrison, 114

  Keller, Thomas, 115, 155, 180, 351

  Kennedy, Robert, Jr., 33

  King Lear (Shakespeare), 19

  Kips, Willem, 31

  Kirschenmann, Fred, 268–69, 330

  Klinkenborg, Verlyn, 51

  La Brea Bakery, 341, 411

  Lahey, Jim, 339, 411

  Lakeview Organic Grain, 326–27, 330–31, 333

  lamb(s), 13–14, 15, 35, 112–18, 123, 144, 153, 154, 162, 278, 304

  chops, 13, 14, 15, 112, 204

  land:

  Leopold’s definition of, 186

  tierra concept, 163, 167, 173, 177–78, 211

  land ethic, 178, 181, 211–12, 305

  “Land Ethic, The” (Leopold), 177–78

  land-grant system, 386–87, 396, 397, 406, 420, 421

  Land Institute, 41

  landrace farming, 358–60, 361, 364, 366–70, 372, 377–78, 380, 392, 402, 404, 408

  Larding the Lean Earth (Stoll), 48–49

  La Serena, 173, 179

  late blight, 382–85, 386–87

  Laverstoke, 30, 33, 79, 89, 426–27, 428

  law of return, 70, 71

  Le Bernardin, 113, 254, 256, 276, 279, 315

  Le Coze, Gilbert, 113, 114, 209, 254–56, 276, 279–80, 315, 400

  Le Coze, Maguy, 254, 255

  Le Louis XV, 221

  León, Ángel, 222–33, 234, 271–75, 277, 280, 282–83, 287, 289, 297n, 301, 302, 303–14, 315–19, 333, 432–33, 442–43

  Aponiente, 221–33, 234, 236, 272, 301, 303–5, 311, 315–17

  León, Carlos, 223

  Leopold, Aldo, 10, 52, 177–78, 181, 186, 211–12, 247, 305, 447

  lettuce, 89

  Regina dei Ghiacci, 206–7

  levantá, 288

  levante (wind), 284–88, 299, 303

  Lexi 2 wheat, 390

  Liebig, Justus von, 72–73

  Life of the Skies, The (Rosen), 249

  Lincoln, Abraham, 44

  lions, 314

  liver, 153

  corn feed and, 127–28, 162

  foie gras, see foie gras

  Louis XVI, King, 109, 180

  Lucio del Bocón, 245

  lupins, 128

  mackerel, 226, 230

  MacLeish, Padraic, 112, 113, 115, 116, 118, 123, 184, 185, 190, 191

  Magdoff, Fred, 86

  Maine, 405

  Making of a Counter Culture, The (Roszak), 340

  Málaga, 249–50

  malt, 418

  Mangold, Scott, 421–22

  Manning, Richard, 49

  manure, 64, 70, 71–72, 79, 173, 427, 439–40