The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food Read online

  Martens, Elizabeth, 427

  Martens, Klaas, 25–37, 40, 46, 49, 52–53, 57–71, 88–90, 103, 112, 175–76, 178, 181, 201–2, 216, 233, 246, 247, 269, 323–34, 336–38, 342–44, 351, 358, 366, 380, 391, 401, 405–6, 410, 419, 422, 423, 425–31, 433, 437, 438

  Lakeview Organic Grain, 326–27, 330–31, 333

  livestock acquired by, 425–28

  pesticides and, 25–26

  Martens, Mary-Howell, 25–29, 39, 53, 62, 64, 175, 323–28, 330–33, 370, 405, 423, 425–27, 429

  Lakeview Organic Grain, 326–27, 330–31, 333

  Martens, Peter, 428, 438

  Martin, Aaron, 324

  Masumoto, Mas, 135, 137, 141, 337

  Mazourek, Michael, 388, 389, 438–39

  McGee, Harold, 373

  meat, 14, 16, 74, 103, 150, 153, 234, 235

  animal suffering and, 159–60

  beef, see beef

  cost of, 153

  cuts of, 152–53, 54

  excess, 152–53, 154

  lamb, see lamb

  pork, see pork

  third plate and, 17–18

  meat-centric meals, 11–12, 14, 17, 432, 443

  mechanistic approach to science, 268–69

  Medialdea, Miguel, 237–46, 249–50, 260–63, 265–70, 276–77, 282–89, 291, 292, 294, 296–98, 302, 307, 309, 312–14, 318, 392

  Melero, Pepe, 288–90, 291, 293, 300, 319

  Mennonites, 31–32, 45, 51, 59, 179, 326, 428, 432

  menus, 12, 135

  dégustation, 140

  ingredient sourcing on, 276, 281, 411

  for 2050, 432–46

  Mexico, 156, 157, 362–63, 364, 369

  Michelin Guide, 137

  microbreweries, 418, 445

  micronutrients, 96, 97, 403

  migas, 431

  Mikumi National Park, 243–44, 314

  milk, 149n, 327, 332, 333, 336, 435, 436

  growth hormones and, 324–25, 326

  organic, 427–28

  sheep’s, 173, 179

  Millau, Christian, 139

  millet, 437

  minerals, 94–99

  trace, 95–96

  Mississippi River, 245, 264

  Mitchell, Dale, 335–36

  Mitchell, Janet, 336

  Mitchell, Rod, 277–80, 286, 315, 318

  Browne Trading Company, 277, 279

  mollusks, 218n

  Monesterio, 131, 162, 197

  monkfish, 255, 256, 280

  monocultures, 9, 20, 73–74, 93, 103, 214, 215, 216, 235, 364, 367, 369

  in greenhouses, 82

  wheat, 49, 342, 412, 423, 434

  Monsanto, 324–25, 328, 385, 390, 395, 400, 408, 412

  Roundup, 395–98

  Montgomery, David, 72

  Mooney, Patrick, 365, 396n

  Morell, Sally Fallon, 266, 267

  Morrill Land Grant Act, 386

  Morton, Frank, 31

  Mountain Magic tomatoes, 384–86, 388, 389, 391

  Mount Vernon Research and Extension Center, 398–99

  Much Depends on Dinner (Visser), 149n

  Muir, John, 20, 177, 423

  mullet, 286–87, 298, 306–8, 310–11, 313–14, 315, 316, 318–19

  mussels, 216

  mycorrhizae, 91, 92–93

  Nathan, Joan, 115–16

  nature, 268–70

  edge effect in, 201, 235

  growing, 19, 180–81

  Native Americans, 1, 351

  Hopi, 371

  Iroquois, 6

  Three Sisters planting strategy of, 6, 378, 446

  “Native Grasses and What They Mean, The” (Berry), 48

  New Hampshire, 405

  New Organic Grower, The (Eliot), 30

  Newsweek, 105, 119, 138

  New York Cooking School, 16

  New York State Agricultural Experiment Station, 325

  Nieporent, Drew, 108

  NIR, 416

  nitrates, 70, 89

  nitrogen, 6, 45, 63–66, 71–75, 92–93, 245–46, 264, 286–87, 352, 358, 369, 417, 437, 440

  algae blooms and, 216, 245–46, 287

  nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N-P-K), 72–73, 76

  North Atlantic Seafood (Davidson), 306–7

  Northwest Fisheries Science Center, 219

  nose-to-tail cooking, 229, 283, 304, 438

  bone to blood, 439–42

  Nouveau Guide Gault-Millau, Le (Gault and Millau), 139

  nouvelle cuisine, 10, 137–41, 149, 254, 259, 306

  nutrients:

  micronutrients, 96, 97, 403

  obesity and, 97

  phytonutrients, 87, 88

  separating out of diet, 98

  oak trees, 166, 168, 178–79, 423, 440

  acorns from, 104, 125, 128–29, 160–61, 164, 167–69, 172, 174, 176n, 177n, 179, 182, 183, 191, 298

  cork from, 174, 177n

  oats, 327, 367, 369–70

  milky, 432–34

  Obama, Michelle, 382

  obesity, 9, 97–98

  O’Blenness, Chris, 196–97

  oceans, 209, 212, 216, 220, 222, 239–40, 264–65, 304

  acidification of, 218n

  carbon and, 218

  edges of, 201, 235, 239–40

  estuaries and, 264, 266

  fishing industry and, see fishing industry

  phytoplankton in, 217, 218

  rivers and, 264–65

  sea ethic and, 220, 265, 305

  sunlight zone in, 264

  Oland, Paula, 410

  oleic acid, 169

  olives, 88, 232

  Omnivore’s Dilemma, The (Pollan), 11, 31

  organic agriculture, 11, 18, 29, 30, 60, 65–66, 76, 266, 324–25, 331, 332, 358, 366, 368, 371, 426

  in greenhouses, 82, 83

  industrial (shallow), 93

  late blight and, 383

  milk and, 427–28

  seeds in, 328

  Orwell, George, 138

  oxalates, 98–99

  oxygen, 217

  Padraic (livestock assistant), see MacLeish, Padraic

  paella, 16

  Palladin, Jean-Louis, 107–9, 115–18, 119, 140–41, 209, 227, 254, 277–80, 400, 444

  Paris International Food Show (SIAL), 111

  parsnips, 443–44

  Pasternack, David, 277, 315

  PBS, 329

  peaches, 135, 136, 141, 337

  peas, 71

  Pée, Marie-Pierre, 111

  Penn Yan, N. Y., 33, 69, 325, 326, 331, 332, 333

  People, 149–50

  Perdue, Arthur, 148

  Perdue, Frank, 148–50, 152, 154

  Perdue Farms, 148–50, 151, 156

  Pesquerías Isla Mayor, 238

  pesticides, 54, 93, 248n, 348

  fungicides, 82–83, 87

  Martens and, 25, 27

  oceans and, 216

  see also herbicides; insecticides

  pests, 58, 60, 61, 68, 99n, 348, 358

  management of, 53–55

  Peterson, Roger Tory, 248n

  Petrini, Carlo, 247

  Philipsburg Manor, 445

  phosphates, 70

  phosphorus, 264, 286–87, 440

  algae blooms and, 216, 287

  N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, 72–73, 76

  photosynthesis, 217

  phytonutrients, 87, 88

  phytoplankton, 217, 218, 225–26, 229, 231, 240–41, 245, 247, 264, 278 305, 307, 315, 432, 442

  bread, 224, 225

&nb
sp; pigs, 125, 126, 129, 130, 131, 161, 163, 167–74, 176n, 177, 179, 182, 298, 423, 439–42

  pork from, see pork

  slaughtering of, 160

  pizza, 10–11

  plankton, see phytoplankton

  plant stress, 53–55

  plows, plowing, 41, 44

  Point, Fernand, 137

  polenta, 2, 6, 7–8, 16, 18, 68, 136, 335, 351, 375–76

  Pollan, Michael, 11, 31, 73–74, 93, 94, 214

  pollination, 380

  population, 368

  hunger and, 365–66, 367, 369n

  pork, 35, 150, 153, 154, 168–69, 298, 306, 327, 333, 441

  cuts of, 179

  ham, see jamón

  Portland Fish Exchange, 253, 280

  potassium, in N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, 72–73, 76

  potatoes, 103

  late blight and, 382

  pot-au-feu, 16

  prairie, 41–45, 47–49, 51

  prawns, 229, 230

  protein-centric diet, 11–12, 14, 17, 432, 443

  protein paradox, 153

  Puck, Wolfgang, 10, 140

  Pygmalion, 38

  Rabalais, Nancy, 216

  Rademacher, Bernard, 53, 57

  rainforests, 218, 318

  Real Ibérico, 164

  Red Chief wheat, 401

  Red May wheat, 344, 355

  refractometers, 81, 93

  Reichl, Ruth, 202–3, 206

  Reisch, Bruce, 388

  restaurants, 137, 305

  expediter’s table (pass) in, 202

  farm-to-table, 8, 9, 12

  rhubarb, 98–99

  rice, 34, 35, 265, 344, 345, 348, 352, 375–77, 446

  Anson Mills and, 349–54

  black, 444–45

  Carolina Gold, 345, 348, 352, 353–54, 376–81

  Carolina White, 353

  interrelated crops and, 351, 352

  miracle, 364

  red, 346

  rice kitchen, 345, 347–48, 352, 353

  Riegleman, Bill, 4

  Rimas, Andrew, 71

  Ripert, Eric, 315

  risotto, 437–38

  Ritz, César, 137

  rivers, 264

  Roberts, Glenn, 1–2, 5, 343–55, 356–62, 364–70, 371–81, 388, 390, 392, 402–4, 408, 417, 444–47

  Anson Mills, 343, 349–55, 356, 371, 373, 379

  Roberts, Kay, 444

  Roberts, Paul, 153

  Rochester, N.Y., 39

  Rockefeller, David, 12–13

  Rockefeller, John D., 12–13

  Rockefeller, Peggy, 13

  Rockefeller Foundation, 362–63, 369n

  Rodeo, 84–85

  roller mills, 39–41, 44, 45

  Rosen, Jonathan, 249, 265

  Rostang, Michel, 124–25

  Roszak, Theodore, 340

  Roundup, 395–98

  Ruscalleda, Carme, 272

  Russia, 156

  rye, 349–50, 352, 358, 437, 438

  Safina, Carl, 209–12, 214, 220, 260–65, 271–75, 280, 282, 296–97, 300, 304, 305, 316

  Sailhac, Alain, 252

  Salatin, Joel, 31, 428

  salmon, 218, 219

  Copper River, 251–52, 257–58, 290

  salts, in soil, 70

  Samuels, Dave, 253–57

  Sand County Almanac, A (Leopold), 177

  Santiago (fisherman), 308–11, 319

  Sant Pau, 271–72

  sardines, 219

  sauces, 139, 227, 444

  sausages:

  blood, 441–42

  fish, 305–6, 307, 311, 315, 316

  Saving the Planet with Pesticides and Plastic: The Environmental Triumph of High-Yield Farming (Avery), 329

  scallops, 278–79

  Scheckter, Jody, 30, 427

  Schiek, Ron, 324

  science, mechanistic approach to, 268–69

  sea, see oceans

  sea bass, 236–37, 241, 242–43, 255, 276–77, 285–86, 306, 307, 313, 314, 315, 318

  sea bream, 231–32

  “Sea Change” (Bates), 211

  sea ethic, 220, 265, 305

  seafood, see fish, seafood

  sea urchin, 255

  seeds, 347, 361, 379, 387, 388

  dwarf, and fertilizers, 365

  hybridized, 360

  organic, 328

  paying breeders for, 396

  saving of, 358, 359–60, 397, 398

  wheat, 360–61, 397, 398

  Seeds, Sex & Civilization (Thompson), 34

  seedsmen, 328, 331

  Seneca Lake, 63, 216, 323

  sesame, 352, 372

  Shakespeare, William, 19

  Shattering: Food, Politics, and the Loss of Genetic Diversity (Fowler and Mooney), 365

  Shaw, George Bernard, 412

  sheep, 112, 113, 143–44, 166, 172–73, 177, 179, 423

  Merino, 173

  wool from, 166, 167

  see also lamb

  sheep’s milk, 179

  cheeses, 173, 179

  shellfish, 229, 230, 315

  Shiva, Vandana, 365, 367

  shrimp, 216, 229–30, 241, 242, 245, 297n, 308

  Silent Spring (Carson), 209, 239, 248n

  Silverton, Nancy, 341, 411, 419

  Simon, Dominique, 258–59

  Skagit Valley, 392–93, 394, 399–400, 404, 430

  skate, 219, 254–55, 280

  slavery, 347–48, 376

  Slow Food, 247

  small farms, 103, 107, 329, 330, 410

  small towns, 325–26

  Smith, Bud, 82–83

  Smith, Margaret, 388

  Smith-Lever Act, 386

  soil, 43–44, 53, 57, 61, 63, 64, 67, 68–77, 90–92, 98, 263, 327, 426, 427

  clover and, 63, 71

  compost and, 85, 88, 89

  Dust Bowl and, 46–48, 50, 363

  fertility of, 44, 61, 64, 70–73, 76–77, 85, 94–95, 327, 328, 330, 333, 351, 431, 433, 439–40

  fertilizers and, 58

  flavor and, 85–90

  humus in, 70, 76

  manure and, 64, 70, 71–72, 79, 427, 439–40

  minerals in, 94–99

  nitrogen and, 45, 63–66, 71–75, 352, 440

  organisms in, 69–70, 86, 88–92, 94, 263, 264, 338, 342, 366, 422, 427

  root systems in, 90–92

  sandy, 93

  in South, crisis in, 346, 347–48, 352

  tests of, 64–65

  weeds as clue to health of, 57–59, 65, 246, 247

  Soil Conservation Act, 47

  sonar, 214, 274

  Song for the Blue Ocean (Safina), 209–10, 211–12, 260, 297, 300

  Sousa, Eduardo, 105, 111, 119–34, 141, 145–46, 158–65, 167–72, 174, 180–84, 187–98, 221, 233, 236, 243–45, 249, 251, 269, 273, 284, 291, 302, 305, 310, 319, 330, 392, 423, 433, 441

  South, 369n

  agriculture in, 346–48

  cuisine of, 344–48, 373, 375

  slavery in, 347–48, 376

  soil crisis in, 346, 347–48, 352

  soybeans, 66, 67, 88, 103, 324, 328, 367, 372, 395, 437

  Spago, 10

  Spain, 134

  Cádiz, 274, 275, 283, 293

  dehesa in, 104–5, 124, 125–26, 128, 163–68, 170, 172–77, 180–82, 193, 196, 211, 233, 262, 269, 284, 330, 332, 423, 428, 430, 440, 441

  Extremadura region of, 104–5, 120–21, 142, 165–66, 179, 194, 195, 431, 440

  Ibérico, see Ibérico

  tierra concept in,
163, 167, 173, 177–78, 211

  wool industry in, 166, 167

  spelt, 57, 62–64, 66, 90, 333, 334

  Spence, Ted, 29

  spinach, 98–99

  sports, 361, 402

  squash, 389, 438–39

  Three Sisters planting strategy, 6, 378, 446

  squid, 257, 317

  Steele, Cecile, 147, 148

  Steinbronn, Adolph, 380

  Steiner, Rudolf, 75, 83–84, 265–70, 302, 309

  Steingarten, Jeffrey, 208, 341

  Stoll, Steven, 48–49

  Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, 1, 2, 6, 13–14, 30, 78–79, 83–85, 96, 103–4, 112, 123, 145, 147, 168–69, 173, 263, 268, 284, 316–17, 327, 330, 377, 378, 431

  Adam Kaye at, 441

  Blue Hill at, see Blue Hill at Stone Barns

  Chris O’Blenness at, 196–97

  Craig Haney at, 13, 14, 113, 115, 116, 142–45, 148, 150, 160, 168–69, 183–85, 190, 191, 194–96, 198, 204, 207, 327, 438, 440–41, 443

  Eight Row Flint corn and, 1–2, 5–8, 18, 361, 377–79

  geese at, 183–91, 194–98

  greenhouse at, 13, 81, 84, 85, 88, 263, 317, 337, 445

  Jack Algiere at, 2–3, 5–8, 79–94, 98, 104, 182, 207, 262–63, 317, 338, 361, 377, 378, 383–85, 387, 422, 434–35, 438, 439, 442, 443–47

  Jill Isenbarger at, 440

  Padraic MacLeish at, 112, 113, 115, 116, 118, 123, 184, 185, 190, 191

  Shannon Algiere at, 83

  stone mills, 39–41

  Strauss, Ann, 3–5, 55, 56, 112, 435

  Striffler, Steve, 148

  sugar, 339

  sugar content (Brix), 81, 85, 92, 93

  sulfur, 65, 66

  Sullivan Street Bakery, 339, 411

  sushi, 204, 209–10, 211, 255–56

  sustainability, 12, 17, 21, 30, 95, 175–76, 182, 208, 212, 329, 330, 332, 429–30, 440

  farm-to-table and, see farm-to-table

  nose-to-tail cooking, see nose-to-tail cooking

  seafood, 210–11, 282

  and surface level of agriculture, 19

  whole farm cooking and, 431–32, 438

  sweet potatoes, 352

  swordfish, 219, 280–81

  Syngenta, 390

  Table des Cordeliers, La, 107

  Tarifa, 300–301

  Tassajara Bread Book, The (Brown), 341

  Telepan, Bill, 256

  Texas Rice Improvement Association, 353

  Third Plate, 17–18, 21, 22, 182, 305, 333, 432, 447

  Thompson, Peter, 34

  Thoreau, Henry David, 249

  Three Sisters planting strategy, 6, 378, 446

  tierra, 163, 167, 173, 177–78, 211

  Time, 119

  tomatoes, 15, 103, 124, 382, 403, 422

  Flavr Savr, 385

  genetically modified, 385–86

  late blight and, 382–85, 386–87

  Mountain Magic, 384–86, 388, 389, 391

  tonaso, 226–27