The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food Read online

  Fromartz, Samuel, Organic, Inc.: Natural Foods and How They Grew (Orlando, FL: Harcourt, 2006).

  Gershuny, Grace, and Joseph Smillie, The Soul of the Soil: A Guide to Ecological Soil Management, 3rd ed. (Davis, CA: agAccess, 1995).

  Graham, Michael, Soil and Sense (London: Faber & Faber, 1941).

  Holthaus, Gary, From the Farm to the Table: What All Americans Need to Know About Agriculture (Lexington, KY: University Press of Kentucky, 2006).

  Jackson, Wes, Consulting the Genius of the Place: An Ecological Approach to a New Agriculture (Berkeley: Counterpoint, 2010).

  Mabey, Richard, Weeds: In Defense of Nature’s Most Unloved Plants (New York: HarperCollins, 2010).

  Morton, Oliver, Eating the Sun: How Plants Power the Planet (New York: HarperCollins, 2009).

  Robinson, Raoul A., Return to Resistance: Breeding Crops to Reduce Pesticide Dependence (Davis, CA: agAccess, 1996).

  Stoll, Steven, The Fruits of Natural Advantage: Making the Industrial Countryside in California (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1998).

  Sykes, Friend, Food, Farming and the Future (Emmaus, PA: Rodale, 1951).

  Tompkins, Peter, and Christopher Bird, The Secret Life of Plants: A Fascinating Account of the Physical, Emotional, and Spiritual Relations Between Plants and Man (1973; repr., New York: Harper Perennial, 1989).

  Voisin, André, Soil, Grass, and Cancer: The Link Between Human and Animal Health and the Mineral Balance of the Soil (New York: Philosophical Library, 1959).

  ———, Grass Productivity (New York: Philosophical Library, 1959).

  Walters, Charles, Weeds: Control Without Poisons (Kansas City: Acres U.S.A., 1991).

  Wedin, Walter F., and Steven L. Fales, Grassland: Quietness and Strength for a New American Agriculture (Madison, WI: American Society of Agronomy, 2009).

  Willis, Harold, Foundations of Natural Farming: Understanding Core Concepts of Ecological Agriculture (Austin, TX: Acres USA, 2007).

  LAND

  Fussell, Betty, Raising Steaks: The Life and Times of American Beef (Orlando, FL: Harcourt, 2008).

  Imhoff, Daniel, ed., The CAFO Reader: The Tragedy of Industrial Animal Factories (Berkeley: Watershed Media, 2010).

  Lappé, Frances Moore, Diet for a Small Planet (1971; repr., New York: Ballantine Books, 1991).

  Nierenberg, Danielle, Happier Meals: Rethinking the Global Meat Industry (Washington, D.C.: Worldwatch Institute, 2005).

  Robinson, Jo, Pasture Perfect: How You Can Benefit from Choosing Meat, Eggs, and Dairy Products from Grass-Fed Animals (Vashon, WA: Vashon Island Press, 2004).

  Schlosser, Eric, Fast Food Nation (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 2001).

  Sinclair, Upton, The Jungle (1906; repr., London: Penguin, 1985).

  SEA

  Bowermaster, Jon, ed., Oceans: The Threats to Our Seas and What You Can Do to Turn the Tide (New York: PublicAffairs, 2010).

  Carson, Rachel, The Sea Around Us (New York: Oxford University Press, 1951).

  Danson, Ted, Oceana: Our Endangered Oceans and What We Can Do to Save Them (Emmaus, PA: Rodale Books, 2011).

  Ellis, Richard, The Empty Ocean (Washington, D.C.: Island Press, 2003).

  Greenberg, Paul, Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food (New York: Penguin Press, 2010).

  Jacobsen, Rowan, The Living Shore: Rediscovering a Lost World (New York: Bloomsbury, 2009).

  Molyneaux, Paul, Swimming in Circles: Aquaculture and the End of Wild Oceans (New York: Thunder’s Mouth Press, 2007).

  Whitty, Julia, The Fragile Edge: Diving and Other Adventures in the South Pacific (New York: Houghton Mifflin, 2007).

  SEED

  Brown, Lester, Full Planets, Empty Plates: The New Geopolitics of Food Scarcity (New York: W. W. Norton, 2012).

  Conway, Gordon, The Doubly Green Revolution: Food for All in the Twenty-first Century (London: Penguin Books, 1997).

  Cribb, Julian, The Coming Famine: The Global Food Crisis and What We Can Do to Avoid It (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2010).

  Eldredge, Niles, Life in the Balance: Humanity and the Biodiversity Crisis (Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1998).

  Kunstler, James Howard, The Long Emergency: Surviving the End of Oil, Climate Change, and Other Converging Catastrophes of the Twenty-first Century (New York: Atlantic Monthly Press, 2005).

  Manning, Richard, Food’s Frontier: The Next Green Revolution (New York: North Point Press, 2000).

  Nabhan, Gary Paul, Coming Home to Eat: The Pleasures and Politics of Local Food (New York: W. W. Norton, 2002).

  ———, Why Some Like It Hot: Food, Genes, and Cultural Diversity (Washington, D.C.: Island Press, 2006).

  Pfeiffer, Dale Allen, Eating Fossil Fuels: Oil, Food and the Coming Crisis in Agriculture (Gabriola Island, BC: New Society Publishers, 2006).

  Ruffin, Edmund, Nature’s Management: Writings on Landscape and Reform, 1822–1859, Jack Temple Kirby, ed. (Athens, GA: University of Georgia Press, 2000).

  Solbrig, Otto, and Dorothy Solbrig, So Shall You Reap: Farming and Crops in Human Affairs (Washington, DC: Island Press, 1994).

  GENERAL FURTHER READING

  Ackerman-Leist, Philip, Rebuilding the Foodshed: How to Create Local, Sustainable, and Secure Food Systems (White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green Publishing, 2013).

  Berry, Wendell, The Gift of Good Land: Further Essays Cultural and Agricultural (San Francisco: North Point Press, 1981).

  Capra, Fritjof, The Hidden Connections: Integrating the Biological, Cognitive, and Social Dimensions of Life into a Science of Substainability (New York: Doubleday, 2002).

  ———, The Web of Life (New York: Anchor Books, 1996).

  Diamond, Jared, Guns, Germs, and Steel: The Fates of Human Societies (New York: W. W. Norton, 1997).

  Dubos, René, The Wooing of the Earth: New Perspectives on Man’s Use of Nature (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1980).

  Dumanoski, Dianne, The End of the Long Summer: Why We Must Remake Our Civilization to Survive on a Volatile Earth (New York: Three River Press, 2009).

  Fraser, Caroline, Rewilding the World: Dispatches from the Conservation Revolution (New York: Metropolitan Books, 2009).

  Freidberg, Susanne, Fresh: A Perishable History (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2009).

  Goleman, Daniel, Ecological Intelligence: How Knowing the Hidden Impacts of What We Buy Can Change Everything (New York: Broadway Books, 2009).

  Halweil, Brian, Eat Here: Reclaiming Homegrown Pleasures in a Global Supermarket (New York: W. W. Norton, 2004).

  Jackson, Dana L., and Laura L. Jackson, ed., The Farm as Natural Habitat Reconnecting Food Systems with Ecosystems (Washington, D.C.: Island Press, 2002).

  Jackson, Louise E., ed., Ecology in Agriculture (San Diego: Academic Press, 1997).

  Kirschenmann, Frederick, Cultivating an Ecological Conscience: Essays from a Farmer Philosopher (Lexington, KY: University Press of Kentucky, 2010).

  Lopez, Barry, ed., The Future of Nature: Writing on a Human Ecology from Orion Magazine (Minneapolis, MN: Milkweed Editions, 2007).

  McKibben, Bill, The End of Nature (New York: Anchor Books, 1989).

  McNeely, Jeffrey A., and Sara J. Scherr, Ecoagriculture: Strategies to Feed the World and Save Wild Biodiversity (Washington, D.C.: Island Press, 2003).

  Meine, Curt, Aldo Leopold: His Life and Work (Madison, WI: University of Wisconsin Press, 1988).

  Patel, Raj, Stuffed and Starved: The Hidden Battle for the World Food System (London: Portobello Books, 2007).

  Smith, J. Russell, Tree Crops: A Permanent Agriculture (New York: Harcourt, Brace and Company, 1929).

  Sokolov, Raymond, Why We Eat What We Eat: How Columbus Changed the Way the World Eats (New York: Touchstone, 1991).

  Soule, Judith, and Jon Piper, Farming in Nature’s Image: An Ec
ological Approach to Agriculture (Washington, D.C.: Island Press, 2009).

  Stuart, Tristram, Waste: Uncovering the Global Food Scandal (New York: W. W. Norton, 2009).

  Tannahill, Reay, Food in History (New York: Stein and Day Publishers, 1973).

  Taubes, Gary, Good Calories, Bad Calories: Fats, Carbs, and the Controversial Science of Diet and Health (New York: Anchor Books, 2007).

  Tudge, Colin, So Shall We Reap: What’s Gone Wrong with the World’s Food—and How to Fix It (London: Allen Lane, 2003).

  Wilson, Edward O., The Future of Life (New York: Vintage Books, 2002).

  Wirzba, Norman, ed., The Essential Agrarian Reader: The Future of Culture, Community, and the Land (Lexington, KY: University Press of Kentucky, 2003).

  INDEX

  The page numbers in this index refer to the printed version of this book. The link provided will take you to the beginning of that print page. You may need to scroll forward from that location to find the corresponding reference on your e-reader.

  Abend, Lisa, 119, 120–26, 130, 158, 161–65, 178, 189–92, 194, 221, 223, 236, 239, 241, 243, 282–85, 287–94, 298, 300, 303, 309, 310, 315–16, 332

  Abraham and Lot, story of, 28

  acorns, 104, 125, 128–29, 160–61, 164, 167–69, 172, 174, 176n, 177n, 179, 182, 183, 191, 298

  Advertising Age, 149

  Agricultural Testament, An (Howard), 76

  agriculture:

  aquaculture and, 261–62

  beginning of, 359

  biodynamic, 265–66

  “culture” in, 175, 377

  Green Revolution and, 362, 364, 367, 368, 369, 412

  industrial, 93, 368

  irrigation and, 365

  land-grant system and, 386–87, 396, 397, 406, 420, 421

  landrace, 358–60, 361, 364, 366–70, 372, 377–78, 380, 392, 402, 404, 408

  middle of, 330

  organic, see organic agriculture

  in South, 346–48

  sustainable, see sustainability

  Albrecht, William, 60–62, 64, 67, 71, 75, 81, 94–95, 97–99, 112, 113

  Alex (pastry chef), see Grunert, Alex

  alfalfa, 395

  algae, 222

  blooms of, 216, 245–46, 287

  Algiere, Jack, 2–3, 5–8, 79–94, 98, 104, 182, 207, 262–63, 317, 338, 361, 377, 378, 383–85, 387, 422, 434–35, 438, 439, 442, 443–47

  Algiere, Shannon, 83

  almadraba, 273–75, 282–83, 287–90, 293–302, 303, 304, 313, 316

  alpha-amylase, 415

  alveograph, 414, 416

  American Farmland Trust, 13

  amino acids, 87

  ammonia, 73, 92–93

  anchovies, 292

  Ancienne Alsace à Table, L’ (Gérard), 110

  Anson Mills, 343, 349–55, 356, 371, 373, 379

  anthracnose, 67

  antibiotics, 235

  antioxidants, 87, 149n

  Aponiente, 221–33, 234, 236, 272, 301, 303–5, 311, 315–17

  apricots, 406

  aquaculture (fish farming), 157, 235–36, 242, 271–72, 277, 303–4, 317, 442

  agriculture and, 261–62

  feed conversion ratio and, 235

  of tuna, 297–98

  at Veta la Palma, see Veta la Palma

  Aragon 03 wheat, 389–92, 404–7

  artichokes, 103

  asparagus, 8–9

  ATF (Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms), 357

  Avery, Dennis, 329, 330

  Ávila Camacho, Manuel, 362

  Bacon, Francis, 268

  Baelo Claudia, 300–302

  bakers, see bread bakers

  Balfour, Eve, 18–19

  Balthazar Bakery, 410

  Balzac, Honoré de, 420

  Barbate, 283, 285, 287–89, 291–94, 299–302

  Barber, David, 3, 104, 143, 151, 335, 435–36

  Barber wheat, 406, 409, 410, 414, 422

  barley, 327, 352, 367, 418, 437, 445

  bass, 236–37, 241, 242–43, 255, 256, 276–77, 285–86, 306, 307, 313, 314, 315, 318

  Bates, Caroline, 206, 210–11, 212, 222, 288

  Bauermeister wheat, 416, 417, 422

  Bayh-Dole Act, 396

  beans, 71, 344, 369, 426, 437

  soybeans, 66, 67, 88, 103, 324, 328, 367, 372, 395, 437

  Three Sisters planting strategy, 6, 378, 446

  beef, 27, 35, 62, 150, 155n, 261, 298, 324, 443–44

  Morucha, 174

  Bennett, Hugh, 47–48

  Benyus, Janine, 44–45

  Berry, Wendell, 11, 20, 48, 145, 175

  biodynamic agriculture, 265–66

  biomass dilution, 95

  Biomimicry: Innovation Inspired by Nature (Benyus), 44–45

  birds, 246–49, 262–63, 265, 268, 302

  agriculture’s threat to, 247–48

  decrease in population of, 248

  flamingos, 244–45, 249–50, 312

  Birkett Mills, 325

  biscuits, 354–55

  Bistrong, Brian, 251–52, 258

  Block, John, 396n

  Blue Hill at Stone Barns, 12–13, 36–37, 78, 80, 142, 144, 160, 171, 202–12, 229, 337, 424–25, 431

  Alex’s brioche at, 334–36, 338, 340, 341, 343

  Gouze at, 203, 206

  Martens’ wheat at, 334–48, 410

  menu for 2050, 432–46

  Blue Hill Farm, 3–5, 112, 201, 435–36

  corn-only year at, 3, 5, 20

  cows at, 55–57, 60–61

  Blue Hill New York, 276–77

  asparagus at, 8–9

  as farm-to-table restaurant, 8, 9

  Blue Ribbon Seafood, 253

  Blue wheat, 434–35, 438, 444

  Bocuse, Paul, 137, 138–39, 140, 141, 149, 254

  Bonny Doon Vineyard, 91

  bootleggers, 349, 350, 351, 357

  Borlaug, Norman, 363, 364, 365, 369, 402, 422

  Bosch, Carl, 73

  boudin noir, 441

  Bouley, 209, 251–52, 257–59, 281

  Bouley, David, 140, 205, 209, 251–52, 256–59, 276, 290

  Boulud, Daniel, 140

  bread, 35–37, 38, 340, 344, 410–23

  biscuits, 354–55

  brioche, 334–48, 340, 341, 343, 434–35

  enriched, 417

  plankton, 224, 225

  sugars in, 417

  white, 339

  whole grain, 341

  bread bakers, 51, 339, 340, 410–22

  craft, 417

  industrial, 416–17

  Breadfarm, 420–21

  Bread Lab, 414–23, 430, 434

  Breaking the Spell (Dennett), 339

  bream, 231–32

  breeders, 387–89, 401–2, 405–6, 410, 430, 434, 439

  at Cornell University, 328, 387–89

  paying of, for seeds, 396

  breeding, 407–8, 418, 439

  for flavor, 389, 403

  breweries, 418, 445

  Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 16, 369

  brioche, 334–48, 340, 341, 343

  whole wheat Blue, 434–35

  Brix, 81, 85, 92, 93

  Broiler Belt, 147

  Brouwer, Brook, 418

  Browne Trading Company, 277, 279

  BST, 324–25, 326

  buckwheat, 437

  buffalo, 300, 427

  Bush, George H. W., 156

  butter, 435–37

  Butz, Earl, 145

  bycatch, 215, 229, 230, 305, 333

  Cádiz, 274, 275, 283, 293

  calcium, 87, 218n
>
  in spinach, 98–99

  caldereta de cordero, 179

  Calgene, 385

  Callahan, Philip, 54n

  Cantisano, Amigo Bob, 31, 79–80, 83

  carbon, 63, 64, 218, 355, 437

  carbon cycle, 217–18

  carbon dioxide, 218

  carbonic acid, 218n

  Cárdeno, 164–65, 170, 176

  Cárdeno, Placido, 164–65, 169–72, 174

  Cárdeno, Ringo, 169–70

  Cárdeno, Rodrigo, 164–65, 169–71

  Carême, Marie-Antoine, 352

  Carolina Gold rice, 345, 348, 352, 353–54, 376–81

  Carolina Rice Kitchen, 345, 347–48, 352, 353

  Carolina White rice, 353

  carotenoids, 149n

  carotene, 315

  carrots, 80–81, 86, 89, 90, 92–94, 96, 99, 304, 315, 317

  mokum, 81, 85, 92–94, 96

  carrot steak, 18–19, 432, 443

  Carson, Rachel, 209, 239–40, 248n

  cattails, 433–34

  cattle, 74, 79, 103, 113, 172–73, 324, 366, 423

  beef from, see beef

  at Blue Hill Farm, 55–57, 60–61

  diets of, 27, 28, 56, 60–61, 64, 66, 97, 114, 298, 327, 332, 333, 440

  growth hormones given to, 324–25, 326

  living conditions of, 74

  milk from, see milk

  Morucha, 174

  Cedroni, Moreno, 311–12

  chanfaina, 179

  Chapel, Alain, 138, 139–40, 254

  charcoal, 174, 441

  cheese, 428

  sheep’s-milk, 173, 179

  chefs, 10–11, 12, 17, 21–22, 35, 51, 68, 122, 134, 135–38, 155, 222, 247, 304, 319, 333, 337, 368, 374–75, 379, 388–89, 402, 411, 420, 424, 425, 430, 439

  farm-to-table, 11, 15, 139–40

  fish and, 218–20, 233, 236, 252, 260, 272, 279–81, 399–400, 442

  nouvelle cuisine, 10, 137–41, 149, 259, 306

  sushi, 204, 255–56

  Chemistry in Its Application to Agriculture and Physiology (Liebig), 72–73

  Chez Panisse, 135, 136, 336

  chicken(s), 14, 114, 142–51, 152–57

  broiler, 148

  in Broiler Belt, 147

  cost of, 156, 157

  eggs, 147, 149